Page 9 - Benjamin & Sheridan Repair Kit Reviews

Service tech eager to help with advice and instructions on installation

Economical solution for the DIY mechanic. Well made tool. Adequate instructions for the experienced mechanic.

Offer the seals and spring as a refill. I now have two tools because I needed to fix two rifles. Also offering the kit for Benjamin 347s which use a different piston cup and slightly different discharge valve.

An air rifle press is handy to put these parts in. The discharge valve spring has considerable compression, using an air rifle press will allow the mechanic to feel the threads engaging. If the discharge valve is cross-threaded, the rifle is ruined.

The fact that a repair kit is available.

That white split washer is not worth a damn. I was able to reuse the lead washer in one of my guns; I haven't figured out what to do in the other gun as I cannot screw the parts back together with the white washer. Instructions could be a lot more detailed, especially for someone who has never done this before.

It appears that everything I needed was in there. It scared me because it didn't work for awhile. It took a rather thorough oiling and burning it to seat right. It works fine now.

The instructions (lack thereof) are horrible. You could use some thing to really know what you are doing. I searched the internet to compensate... still not very good.

Glad I found you. I rebuilt a gun that I had for 50 years.

All parts needed were there to fix my old sheridan.

Would like the parts available in a seperate kit without tool. I have 2 tools now. Also more detailed instructions on how to install plastic seal that replaces old lead seal.

Keep trying to get that plastic seal in right and reverse the domed nut so flat side is down against plastic seal.

1. I used this kit to repair my pre-1960 Sheridan Blue Streak. It shoots great, once again. 2. Relating the 1 and 2-digit part numbers of the kit's six replacement parts, with the part numbers and part drawings of the illustrated parts breakdown page, made things easier.

I would improve the instructions to include some details as follows: 1. Kit item #30 (part #10010 - intake valve assy). This small item looks like a 1/2" diameter button, and didn't come out at first. I came close to not getting it out, since it didn't drop out at first. It would have helped to add instructions for removing this part (something to the effect of "push with thin straight wire from muzzle end of air tube, using a flashlight to locate the small center hole at the front of the air valve assy, about 18" down from the muzzle end, through which to push the wire"). Installing the new item #30 should make clear that the rubber side is toward the muzzle; the metal side is toward the breech. This isn't real obvious because in my case, the part just dropped out finally, and you have no way to know for sure which side was forward, although when you figure out its function and placement, it does make sense that the rubber seal should be forward. 2. Kit item #27 (part # 68AT-032 - lead valve guide gasket originally). This is a white (plastic?) ring. I thought it was defective (slit open at one point). It was not defective; instead, the slit, at a 45 degree angle, is there intentionally, so its diameter can vary on installation. Making that clear in the instructions would have prevented my unneccesarily calling Pyramyd to report a defective part. By the time I talked to Pyramyd, I had already followed another poster's suggestion, and had used a 5/8"x1/2"x1/16" rubber o-ring from Menard's in place of the supplied white plastic ring (or original lead gasket). So far, so good. I can still install the white ring, or even try re-installing the gun's original lead gasket, if the rubber substitute fails.

(See "things I would change", above) 1. My pre-1960 Blue Streak does not use kit item #19 (the tiny o-ring). My bolt is not grooved for it. Never knew there was a grooved bolt, until I looked at a later Blue Streak at a gunshop. 2. Stacy at Pyramyd is extremely competent and helpful. I called a couple times with questions; she returned my calls and was most helpful and knowledgeable about these kits and repairs.

Nice to be able to get the parts for my Sheridan

I was happy with everything except the split ring seal.After messing it up I used the old lead seal and it went in with no problem and works fine . It would be better if there was a seal made so that it did dot expand ,one that would hold it's circumference .

Many people in the blogs said they needed a socket for the 1/8 head screw in the bolt. Take an allen set screw , grind down the threads on the outside so it will ft in the recess and then cut a screwdriver slot in the other end . Perfect fit and works fine.

Works like it should to repair older benjanin air rifles.

Sell the kit without the tool for people who have more than one gun to repair.I have repaired several guns over the years and already have three tools.

includes instructions as well as the need tool

none

there are additional parts that may need to be replaced that are not included in this kit

Kit contained most of the parts needed and a tool without which disassembly and reassembly would be be impossible. Thanks to this kit I'm finally able to restore my trusty old Sheridan.

As others have stated instructions are marginal and the kits lacks replacements for the valve guide gaskets. Add a tool for removal of the bolt locking lug or provide instructions for removal and information on proper tool required.

The forward valve guide seal on my 1983 vintage Sheridan C disintegrated upon disassembly. I expect this would be a common problem but there is no replacement in the kit. One reviewer suggests replacement with a # 6 "O" ring but I could not get the valve guide retainer nut to thread using the "O" ring. I bought some thin gasket material at the local auto parts store and made a new gasket ( a bit difficult but succeeded on the second try). I replaced the lead gasket with an "O" ring and it seems to work well. I recommend you not attempt removal of the bolt retainer lug unless you have the proper size (appears to be 1/8 in.) socket or nut driver (good luck in finding one). The retainer lug on my gun is slotted for screw driver so lacking a 1/8 nut driver or socket , I attempted it with a screw driver. Don't do it, the lug may be extremely tight . I stopped short of seriously damaging the head and I am now awaiting delivery of a 1/8 in nut driver. I don't know if it is possible to replace the bolt seal without removing the bolt but I didn't want to risk damaging the replacement. Meanwhile I have a leak around the bolt gasket so haven't been able to properly test my reseal job. The other seals seem to be working. Downloading the exploded view from the Crosman site as others have suggested definitely makes the job easier.

Adequate equipment and supplies for re-sealing an older air rifle.

Need a (very hard to find) 1/8 in nut driver, or option to purchase same. You can't easily find them, and one is needed to do the bolt. Also, the instructions aren't clear enough. There is an online link to an old Sheridan shop manual that would be VERY helpful to include.

One just might be able to increase performance with one of the old "turbo valves" from the PMI PGP early paintball era, if you can find one.

The Sheradin Tool.

Needs better plastic O ring? Brass? Copper? There is an O ring on the valve that doesnt come in the kit. My Sheradin needed it replaced. The price needs to be dropped to $15, include the 1/8" spring bolt tool and oil if customers are going to pay almost $30 for a reapair kit..

Dont put to much pressure on that plastic ring, it WILL Break just as mine did...

I was able to fix a .20 cal I have had since 1975..

Throw in tube of oil..

I was very happy with the service & product. It was the second time I've used this sight and will surely return if the need arises. I would also highly recommend this sight to family & friends.

Almost nothing.

Almost everything. Where do I start? The bolt sealing O-ring was a tad too small. The valve plunger surface was slightly rough, and had a "grinding" feel when it operated. The air piston end cup was near impossible to install, although this was due to the miserable instructions, and the complete lack of advise on how to remove the old one. the springs are ok, the real valve seal can go in either way, once again the incomplete instructions do not indicate which way is correct. the split plastic seal that is supposed to replace the lead seal at the top of the valve is a joke, throw it away immediately, and CAREFULLY attempt to re-use the lead seal. Once again, instructions are useless here.

This kit might work on other airguns with lots of modification, re-using the 45 year old lead seal, (a new one of which is NOT included in this kit), and possibly putting in lots of black perm-a -tex to seal it up. (mentioned in another review) It sure didn't fix mine. How this can be called a "repair kit" with out the main valve seal is beyond reason.

quick ship

need to put some real instructions in with the package

dont know if it was really worth the money

the kit is not that hard to use

better directions would be nice. and going back to the lead ring instead of the POS plastic ring that was twisted in my kit.

take your time with this kit, the ring can break very easily.

The tool is the best part of the package

Instructions were non-existent. Just watch how everything comes out of the valve body and good luck getting the threads to start on the valve cap when you try to re assemble it without mashing the lead seal.

It's a fairly complete kit. The Benji I rebuilt for a neighbor shoots like new again. This kit doesn't come with a new lead seal, so if yours has one, be careful when you remove the old one. You will probably need it. I had to turn down the valve button (spring side) in my lathe so the spring would fit. The pump cup is solid, you may have to drill out the new one to fit your pump. The tool worked flawlessly

Benjamin 342 shoots like new again.

Better diagram needed.

It took me about 3 hours and you need a workshop with a vise. Dont forget to keep one pump in it when you are done. Its not easy but better than laying out a bunch of money for a new gun.

I got it right a way, the kit is all you need

nothing

I did repair an old Sheridan made back on 1983-1984, the repair kit was the difference (excellent)