Page 7 - Benjamin & Sheridan Repair Kit Reviews

Nice tool and parts, certainly adequate for the intended purpose. Perfect fit in the mid-1970s rocker safety Sheridan Blue Streak that I brought back to life for a buddy. We used to shoot the very same gun as kids, and now it's back in action. I found it a rewarding project and much more fun than packing and shipping the gun for service (to P.A., of course!).

I wish my learning curve was better! It took me three tries to get it right. No fault of the kit. It was my first time inside a multi-pump pneumatic. I think my main problem was poor job cleanliness on the first tries, I didn't get the old gunk out entirely at first.

If you try this as your first rebuild of a multi-pump pneumatic of this sort, be prepared to spend some time on trial and error. Definitely review the directions thoroughly, and also seek out additional instructions and tips that can be found in multiple places on the internet.

Quick shipping...parts were an exact fit for my pellet rifle.

Excellent company to deal with. Customer service is outstanding and they stand behind all their products. Highly recommend!

I really liked the instructions that came with the kit. They explained the repair very well. The parts diagram was real good. The gun works like new again.

Nothing.

Anyone thinking about working on these older Sheridans need good mechanical skills putting the new parts in.

the tool is nice, well blued, and some of the parts fit.

The one critical part is the rubber gasket. Apparently this is not a universal part and does not fit my gun. I see no option to order the correct gasket.

Before ordering the kit, I verified that my gun matched the description of the gun the kit was designed for. The one critical part is the rubber pump gasket. Apparently this is not a universal part for these airguns. The gasket supplied has a flat bottom, and my gun requires a gasket with a 1/4 inch hole (depression). There is no way the gasket can be adapted since it is too thin in the middle to modify. This appears to be an exercise in futility and a total waste of money. If I cannot find the correct gasket online, I will be forced to machine a new part for my gun to accept the gasket supplied.

The install of the kit was easy for me. Nowmy gun works like it is new.

Increase instruction explaintion.

Be sure to look down both the front and rear bore of the air chambers. Be sure to clean these chambers out. I used a paper towel taped to a wooden dowel. Spray the paper towel with electic motor cleaner. Keep changing the paper until the chambers are completely clean. Be sure the orifice between the front and rear chambers is clean and you can see thru the hole.

The tool, however it should come with a rod to loosen and tighten the replaced parts.

Better instructions. Better rubber gaskets, a link with video showing how step by step to replace valves. I would replace the techs who are on duty to answer what ever questions you may have to replace the parts for they are clueless on what to do.

The best way to repair your air gun is of you have the right tools. Don't expect this to be easy unless you have a gunsmith shop with the right punches and tools to get the job done. By the way the number to call for help is a joke. I called three times and never received a good answer on what I needed to do in order to remove certain parts. The best answer I was told by one of the techs was to use good judgment.

It's great to have my old Blue Streak functioning again. The tool provided worked like a charm.

The schematic displays the hammer 180 degrees opposite of the way it should be installed. On first assembly I couldn't cock the rifle. Reassemble with hammer turned 180 degrees resolved issue.

Just pay attention to the hammer position on removal and follow the rest of the instructions.

It works for my 1971 Benjamin Model 347. It use to not even hold air over night now it holds air and dose not seem to be leaking. Planing on getting another one as a spare.

I would have liked a lead washer instead of the replacement plastic washer. I did not use the plastic one. i reused my old one.

If your gun has not been apart for a while. It may be hard to remove the valve guide retaining nut.

Product worked well. Up and shooting again,my problem was I disassembled the gun three months earlier.

This kit has everything you need to repair the older Sheridan Blue Streak.I was able to disassemble and install the kit in less than an hour. The old Sheridan pumps and holds air great now.

Offer a seal kit without the tool.

Pay close attention to the order of parts when disassembling and reassembling.

Everything about this repair kit is top notch. The instructions are clear and concise, the tool for removing the brass plug makes the entire job possible. The kit is easy to do, and like any project if you take your time, think things through it will go smoothly. The kit came quickly even though it was "out of stock" when I ordered and it was packaged well.

Nothing really, except added suggestions for removing and installing the brass plug with the tool. I'm afraid this is the step where those with limited mechanical skill and experience could end up ruining their air rifle. See below in "Anything else airgunners should know." Hopefully there's a kit out there without the tool so that when my air gun fails again (after another 34 years of loyal service) I can just but the parts. But I'll be 80 at that time and probably out of the air gunning realm.

The instructions should touch on the following facts, which will save novices a lot of time, headache and frustration: A) After removing the brass plug the lead washing is likely going to be a huge pain to remove. I created a long hook out of welding rod to pull it out past the threads in the tube (where the brass plug was). A coat hanger can do the same thing after altering it with a wire cutter and a needle nose pliers. B) After placing the assembly and attempting to screw the brass plug back in, you'll need not only muscle, but stamina and a keen sense of "squareness" to thread it in. A lot of downward force needs to be placed on assembly through the brass plug and tool while attempting to screw it in place without cross-threading. If you cross thread, you'll ruin everything. A keen sense of orientation when performing this task is critical.

The tool and the diagram

The nylon washer is useless and the thin o-ring was too thin.

I have an older Sheridan Blue Streak that did not hold air. I purchased this kit from Pyramid Air and got it a few days (perfect) the dis-assembly whet very well but that is where it ended. I re-assembled exactly as instructed being careful to to cross thread the square nut. This went fine but the gun still leaked just as before. I dis-assembled and re-assembled several more times and no luck and of course my luck was destine to run out I started to cross thread the square nut. I had to walk away for the night and re-visit again the next day. I came to realize that the thin o-ring was the problem and just not thick enough. I substituted the thin washer with and O-ring from a Crosman 760 powermaster valve. (The o-ring that joins the 760 valve together) it worked perfect. But my trouble was not over I could not get the square nut to grab due to some cross threading. So I decided to try turning the square nut upside down due to fact that the threads are close to the very top of the nut. I also eliminated the nylon washer. The nut threaded right on and the gun works perfect. I passed 8 shots over the Chrony and averaged 620 fbs with Sheridan Diablo 14.3 gr. I love Pyramid Air and is my first place I go to for my airgun needs. But I think you may be able to find a better seal kit out there.

Fixed two old Sheridan's with these. Works good.

The tool with which to get the back of the air chamber apart and all the tips in these reviews with out which I may not have been successful at repairing my 1983 Benjamin model 347.

Get rid of the PTFE split washer, part # 27 and supply something that works just in case the lead washer does get damaged. I was REAL careful to NOT damage the lead washer. Some sort of tool is needed for use in removing the small screw that is in the bolt that contacts the hammer. A flat screw driver DOES NOT work. I had to mill the head off with a dremel tool then drill out and re-tap the screw hole and fabricate a new screw to take it's place.

After removing part #29, parts # 27,28,31 and 25 fell right out. I had to spray kroil into the air chamber and let soak 30 minutes then reassemble the the air piston and pump handle to blow parts #30,23 and 24 out of the chamber as they were corroded in place. I cleaned up and reused the brass check valve/inlet valve part #30 gluing a piece of bicycle tire innertube to it's face as described in another review here. I had to file down the face of the new exhaust valve(part #31), the part facing the muzzle, so it fit the out let/exhaust valve spring. I chucked the valve in an electric drill and used a regular file for this, an idea also taken from a previous review . I used the supplied thin O ring part # 26 as the thin gasket did break during disassembly. I reused the lead washer because the supplied PTFE split washer, part # 27, is a joke I thoroughly cleaned all interior surfaces and parts and very lightly lubed parts with Ballistol to help prevent future corrosion. I used nail gun/air tool oil for rubber surfaces. The air chamber mechanism now works like new. I took my time and paid very close attention to how the thing came apart. A schematic and part numbers and names were found on Crosman's web site. I will keep at least one pump in the chamber at all times from now on the keep debris out of the air chamber and parts. All that's left now is to see how long the gun functions with this overhaul. I hope it lasts another 30 years.

The pieces and the valve tool fit the model rifle I have

The teflon intake valve does not seal right. I think it is too stiff and would not seal properly. I would like to purchase only the seals and not the valve tool

Saving and re-using the lead gasket is better tan usind the teflon gasket

Great kit ! Nice quality replacment parts.

Add 2 Roll Pins for the front barrel.

Get this Kit if you want to bring your Old Benjamin Sheridan (With the soldered Valve)back to life ! And the Customer Service is Great !! Thanks Pyramyd Air

This repair kit fit my mid-1970's Sheridan CB9 (5mm) pump gun. I hadn't touched the gun in decades and it would not hold air. Now it shoots like brand new! The price for the kit is probably close to market value for the rifle as old as it is, but this was my first pellet gun with a lot of sentimental value to me. Now that I know how it all goes together and works, I know better how to keep it running. This kit saved my Sheridan from the scrap heap!!

It was a royal PITA to get the valve *carefully* screwed back in without cross-threading it, but other than that everything went fine.

Accurate description of kit and tool works good on older Benjamin/Sheridan airguns.

Quality of the parts but these older parts are not easy to copy.

Overall it does work for the older model pump airguns.

The valve tool provided made it simple to take apart the pump mechanism. I was able to repair my Sheridan C9 rifle and it is working once again. This kit was worth the money I spent!

I would change the instructions. I had to go online to find better instructions that had step by step directions with pictures.

The most difficult part in installing this kit is taking out the pins on the rifle to remove the front part of the pump mechanism. It is very useful to have a good set of roll pinch puncih sets. If you haven't taken apart an old Sheridan rifle before then you will spend a couple of hours taking it apart and then putting back together. In the end it will be worth the time. I bought my Sheridan at a yard sale for $15.00 and then it worked only for a couple of days. I spent $30 plus shipping on this kit, a great deal to repair a popular American made rifle.

Worked great. Shaft on valve needed to be sanded down some to fit the valve body of my 1968 Silver Streak. The threaded end that you use to pull the valve stem out is instrumental in removing the valve parts.

Maybe include a little packet of lithium grease?

It took some time to sand down the valve shaft and I had to use a battery impact drive to loosen the lock but with the square socket in it. I chucked up a 1/4 Allen wrench in the impact wrench and put the "L" part through the removal tool. Also you should wrap some tape around the removal tool to keep it from scratching.