by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier
Sig ASP20 breakbarrel rifle.
This report covers:
- Trigger adjustment
- Whiskey3 4-12X44 scope
- Today’s test
- Velocity with the lead Crux Pb
- JSB Exact Jumbo
- JSB Exact Jumbo Heavy
- How fast will she go?
- Easy cocking!
- Barrel loose when cocked
- Trigger pull
- First stage?
- Summary
Today we will find out about the velocity of the .22-caliber Sig ASP20 breakbarrel rifle that I’m testing. Before we get into that, though, I have a couple things to address.
Trigger adjustment
First, reader Siraniko asked this:
“You will have to show us a picture how the trigger is adjusted while in the gun. The only picture I could find of how to adjust the trigger showed it while separated from the gun (/blog/2018/08/my-day-at-sig-sauer-part-2/).”
That’s a good question. He asked because I showed the bent Phillips screwdriver that’s used to adjust the trigger pull weight. So let’s discuss the trigger adjustments now.
Nearly all trigger adjustments on firearms and airguns are located at the bottom of the trigger assembly, where they are accessed through the triggerguard. Sometimes, though, the stock has to come off to get to them. The ASP20 has its two adjustment screws in two different places and both the stock and the scope can remain where they are.
The adjustment to move the point of the second stage engagement is located on the bottom of the trigger assembly in the conventional location. It’s difficult to see because the screw is actually hidden by the back of the trigger. But the Allen wrench through the hole in the triggerguard will go to the right place.
The Allen wrench passes through the triggerguard and into the back of the trigger where it engages the first stage adjustment screw.
The other trigger adjustment is the trigger pull weight and is located at the top rear of the trigger. It’s accessed through a hole in the back of the spring tube cap, and, with the bent screwdriver Sig provides, the trigger can be adjusted with the scope mounted.
The adjustment screw is spring-loaded, so you have to push the screwdriver tool down to engage it. That is important. If I hadn’t tried it I might have overlooked that important step. The push is substantial, though the manual calls it light, so when you get your rifle, give it a try, even if you have no intention of adjusting the pull weight.
Push down on the trigger adjustment tool and you can adjust the trigger pull.
The adjustment takes about a quarter-turn of the screw to change the pull weight by 2 ounces. So adjust, then relax and reposition the tool. Then push down and adjust again. Repeat until the trigger is where you want it. Clockwise increases the pull weight and counter-clockwise decreases it.
Whiskey3 4-12X44 scope
Several readers were fascinated by the way the Whiskey3 elevation scope adjustment allows you to keep the crosshairs on the target at all times. This is nothing new. Field target shooters have been doing the same thing for more than 20 years. They make custom scope knobs that they cover with tape and then write all the distances to the targets on the tape. Once they sight in the rifle at all ranges, it works well.
Firearms scopes have similar adjustment features but they don’t work nearly as well. They don’t because they are calibrated for a specific round of ammunition that the owners of the guns either can’t get or they refuse to pay for — preferring bargain ammo. They also don’t bother investing in the rangefinders that are needed to determine the exact distance to the targets. I’ve had shooters tell me that a target I knew to be at 75-yards was 200 yards away! Without a rangefinder many people can’t estimate range accurately enough to use a ballistic scope.
Without discipline and controls, a ballistic scope has no chance to work as designed. Field target shooters only shoot between 10 and 50 meters (11 and 55 yards), so they don’t have nearly the problems that firearms shooters have with this concept. They cannot use rangefinders in a match, but they have learned how to use the parallax adjustments of their scopes as a makeshift rangefinder.
They also don’t skimp on ammunition. Whatever pellet their rifle and scope are set up to shoot is what they will shoot, because they have taken the time to set all of this up.
What I’m saying is the Whiskey3 might actually be better on an air rifle than any other ballistic scope in use on a firearm today. I have to sight in the rifle and set the scale on the scope before I can test accuracy, so you will have a chance to look over my shoulder at how this scope is set up.
Today’s test
With that out if the way it’s time to look at the velocity of the test rifle. The ASG20 is not like any other air rifle I have tested, because it has that Whiskey3 scope mounted. The scope is set up to work with pellets in the 14.5 to 16-grain weight range. That comes from Ed Schultz of Sig. What that means is that for the pellet to always impact at the point of aim you must know the range to the target, set it on the elevation adjustment of a scope that has been sighted in and then use a pellet whose weight falls within that range.
Can you use other pellets? Of course. They just won’t adjust to the ranges marked the scope’s elevation knob in the way I have just explained. You can still sight in the Whiskey3 scope and use any pellet exactly as you would for any other airgun. Sig even gives you the original vertical adjustment knob with the mil scale, plus the knob’s cover. Just swap it for the range scale knob and you’re in business.
Velocity with the lead Crux Pb
I started with the pellet Sig set up the Whiskey3 scope to use — the Sig Crux Pb (lead). That is a pellet Pyramyd AIR does not yet stock. The lead Crux is domed and weighs 14.66 grains, according to Sig. I weighed several and found them to weigh between 14.7 and 14.9 grains. Most of them weighed 14.7 grains, so I will calculate the performance from that weight.
Ten Crux lead pellets averaged 856 f.p.s. The spread went from 850 to 868 f.p.s., so a range of 18 f.p.s. At the average velocity this pellet produces 23.92 foot pounds of energy at the muzzle. So, with the first pellet the ASP20 has already exceeded its expected energy of 23 foot pounds (for a .22).
I have to mention the Crux pellets are not easy to load into the breech. I remember that from my time at Sig, and it appears they are still that way.
JSB Exact Jumbo
The second pellet I tested was the JSB Exact Jumbo. When I tested a rifle at Sig, this was the most accurate pellet and it also matched the trajectory set in the Whiskey3 scope. In the test rifle this pellet averaged 830 f.p.s. The spread went from 824 to 835 f.p.s. That’s a range of 11 f.p.s. At the average velocity this pellet produced 24.31 foot pounds of energy at the muzzle.
JSB Exact Jumbo Heavy
Next up were some 18.13-grain JSB Exact Jumbo Heavy pellets. They averaged 776 f.p.s. in the test rifle and the spread went from a low of 771 to a high of 780 f.p.s. That’s a range of 9 f.p.s. At the average velocity this pellet produces 24.25 foot pounds of energy.
How fast will she go?
The last pellet I tested in the rifle was the Sig Crux Ballistic Alloy dome. These weigh only 10.03-grains, which makes them fast! In the test rifle they averaged 1064 f.p.s. with a spread from 1056 to 1070 — a span of 14 f.p.s. At the average velocity this pellet produced 25.22 foot pounds of energy — the highest in the test!
I must note that these alloy Crux pellets loaded hard, just like the lead ones. In fact, I seated them deep in the barrel with a pen because my fingers got sore pushing them in directly. All the JSB pellets went in snug but easy.
I had to push the Crux pellets in to the breech with a pen.
For a brand new spring-piston air rifle the ASP20 is very stable. I feel it will probably continue that way for a long time.
Easy cocking!
Throughout this test I was amazed by how easy it is to cock the ASP20. The test rifle cocks with just 33 lbs. of effort! I could shoot this one for hours. And there is virtually no noise upon cocking. The gas piston is without sound when cocked.
Barrel loose when cocked
While carrying the cocked rifle back to my office after measuring the cocking effort, I noticed the barrel was swinging freely. It doesn’t stay put in any position like we try to make other breakbarrels do. But that’s because of the keystone breech. The breech is locked up solid then it’s closed, yet the barrel doesn’t add one ounce of resistance when cocking the gun. The action fork doesn’t have to squeeze this barrel to make the breech tight.
Trigger pull
I am flabbergasted by how light and smooth the trigger of this rifle is. Measuring it as it came from the box the first stage took 1 lb. 9 oz. and stage 2 broke at exactly 2 lbs. every time. It is so light and crisp that I didn’t want to adjust it, but this is a test, so I’m adjusting it heavier — because it’s a half-pound lighter than what Sig says is the minimum pull weight.
At first I turned the screw counter-clockwise to see if what Sig says about the trigger not going below the minimum. Or, at least that’s what I’m telling you. I won’t tell you that I turned it backwards by mistake — that would be stupid. Either way, the pull stayed at 2 lbs.
Then I adjusted it clockwise and raised the pull to 2 lbs. 7 oz. Yes — the pull weight adjustment does work.
First stage?
The first stage was adjusted the way I like it, but for the sake of this test I tried to adjust it out. And I succeeded! I gave the trigger a single-stage pull. Stage one was long and I could feel movement in the trigger blade, though there was no creep as the blade advanced.
After testing that I adjusted the trigger to exactly where I want it — a long first stage followed by a short crisp second stage. The Matchlite trigger is a marvel. You’re going to enjoy it!
Summary
This test could not have gone better! Everything I tested either worked as it had when I was at Sig or better. I just hope accuracy continues to hold where it was then, as well. Next time I will sight in the scope and give you the first groups.
B.B.,
Thank you for the pictures and instructions on how the trigger is adjusted. I would never have guessed that screw located where a safety would normally be positioned in most air rifles to be the one to adjust the pull weight. That picture also illustrated what you meant by the bent screwdriver allowing to make adjustments with a scope attached. That sentence almost created a bald spot when I was puzzling over it. Not as bad as the American Zimmerstutzen mechanism though, that one is in a class by itself.
Siraniko
A much anticipated velocity/power test. As Siraniko has remarked a most
unusual trigger adjustment method.
Now for the accuracy tests looking good
B.B.,
Thank you for the mention on the marked turrets. Including the original turret is brilliant. Trigger adjustments are sweet. Well thought out. The push-turn, release, push-turn, release action is unique for the pull weight, as is it’s location.
The lightest pellet making the most FPE,….. we do not see that happen often. Looking forwards to the next phase in testing.
Good Day to one and all,…. Chris
Chris,
With spring-piston airguns the lightest pellet nearly always is the most powerful. I haven’t been pointing that out recently, but I expected it.
What amazes me is that the heaviest pellet is also right there in power.
B.B.
BB
I’m thinking the gun made a crack sound when it shot that lighter pellet despite the silencer.
I would have to stay with the heavier pellets I believe. Probably even if the lighter ones are more accurate than the heavier ones. I just don’t like the crack.
GF1,
I though it would, too, but only 2-3 times in the string of 10 did it crack. It was right on the cusp of the sound barrier.
B.B.
BB
Yep not to bad I guess. But maybe not good.
Two or three cracks are sure to end a back yard session in certain neighborhoods and such.
Just something to be aware of.
B.B.,
is it true the the heavier pellet are “easier” on the piston head as light weight pellets lets the piston head “slam” harder? Or is/was that just true for magnum springers.
Doc
Doc,
I have never believed that, but I’m in the minority. Most people feel that is correct.
B.B.
B.B.
Great long awaited report!
Question #1-If the ballistic elevation knob on the scope is maximized for 14-16 grain pellets, why shoot anything else? Will Sig offer different elevation knobs for different weight pellets? What about .177?
Question #2-Does Sig recommend storing the gun with the gas ram in the down position, i.e. ram stem down and ram body up? I understand that this keeps the ram seal lubricated better when sitting for long periods.
Question #3-What kind of wood is the stock made from? Both your friend from church and the pictures make it seem “grainless”.
Question #4-The stock shape looks familiar. Looks a bit like the Remington Magpul Model 700?
https://www.remington.com/rifles/bolt-action/model-700/model-700-magpul . Please comment on the unusual shape.
Can not wait for Part 4.
Thanks,
Yogi
Yogi,
Personally, I would not shoot anything but a pellet in the weight range. I would look for the best one of those. But as the scope can also be used in the conventional way, I felt I had to test it that way, too. I’ll probably test it for accuracy with pellets outside the range, too.
B.B.
So it there a different elevation knob for the .177?
Any comment on the stock shape?
-Y
Yogi,
There may be a different knob but I never hear that there was. As long as you shoot pellets at the same velocity the caliber shouldn’t matter.
Get used to the stock shape because it is the shape we will see from now on. Many new rifles have stocks with that shape.
B.B.
BB
What about the coefficient of drag comparing the bigger diameter .22 caliber to the smaller diameter .177 caliber pellet.
There has to be some difference in the flight of the pellet at a certain distance comparing the two calibers despite weight. The .22 caliber will have more mass and create more drag.
GF1,
Yes, and also the faster they go the higher the drag, so the smaller pellet has greater drag.
B.B.
BB
Yep drag does change things.
I’m curious to see what pellet Sig tested with the Whisky scope in .177 caliber.
Or did they?
BB,
I can tell right now that Sig has a winner. They are going to have a difficult time keeping up with demand for some time to come. I myself may have a very hard time resisting when the synthetic stock version hits the market. There is all likelihood that this is going to put a ding in PCP sales for a bit.
When you do your accuracy testing, please do extensive testing of hold sensitivity. If the non sproinger dude can pick this up and go, this will likely become the airgun of the year.
RidgeRunner,
If I were in the market for an air rifle in this power/price range, this is probably the one I would choose. There is some competition, however. There are also the Diana 340, Weihrauch HW80 and Weihrauch HW95. But this Sig is an all-around winner (if accurate :^).
Michael
Michael,
I have wanted the 340 Luxus and the HW95 for some time now and would be VERY happy to have either or both, however I am more likely to scrape up the change for the ASP20 in synthetic stock with the W3 scope. The other two I would want for the “classic” desire, but this would be the workhorse that likely would end up as an heirloom itself.
What the others have and this one lacks is hold sensitivity. It may be possible to “tune” this out of the others, but this is designed that way from the beginning. I believe what we are seeing with this air rifle is the “next generation” of sproingers that others will aspire to.
RidgeRunner,
I can shoot a sensitive sproinger, but I too am very interested if this gun is hold sensitive. Shooting one that is hs requires me to concentrate much more. I like easy shooting guns better.
Doc
Doc
Sorry but pcp’s usually fall back into that category.
Doc,
My five sproingers have taught me to be hold sensitive also.
This air rifle is showing the world that a sproinger does not have to be hold sensitive. This air rifle is showing the world that you can have a great trigger and still make the lawyers happy. This air rifle is showing the world that a sproinger can be very accurate. What it takes is proper engineering and a company willing to build it that way without cutting corners to meet certain market price points.
No, Wally World is not likely going to buy a shipment container full for their stores. Those who will buy this are people like you and me who have learned if you want quality results you will need quality tools.
As I said to Michael, I think we are seeing the “next generation”.
Engage
RR,
I have a gas piston airgun and a spring piston airgun, a Crosman Nitro Venom .22 and a Diana RWS 34P .22. Both are hold sensitive…and I can not shoot either of them well. It must take a lot more practice than I am willing, or have time to do. The other thing is that my main usage is for pesting sparrows and starlings. That can not be done from a bench, and a repeatable hold is not possible in a pesting or hunting scenario in my opinion. My Urban PCP can be held in many different ways and positions without having to concentrate on exactly the correct hold. This past spring and summer my pest dispatching was near 100%. That’s a first in over six years. Using my breakbarrels has always been a hit or miss, with the misses far outnumbering the hits. I’m very happy with my Urban and grateful to the folks here who have recommended that I try a PCP.
Geo
Geo,
Yup,… can’t say enough on avoiding buying your way to better/best. It could be air guns, scopes, pellets or any number of things. I have done pretty well and did start out with springers. No regrets. PCP’s were foreign to me and they must be called “The Dark Side” for a reason,.. ehh? It is called “The Dark Side” because nothing could be easier,.. and,… (will) get you “hooked”. There is/can be some additional cost,…. but today,.. you can be set up with a nice PCP and hand pump and be very, very happy.
My advice,…. (for those new to the sport)
1) Find a place (like this).
2) Ask lots of questions.
3) Do lots of research.
4) Ask lots (more) questions.
5) Do (more) research.
6) Ask (more) questions, if needed.
7) Buy
{ 8) This one is only for me,…. Having talked yourself (out) buying something 10 x,… (after doing steps 1 ~ 7), and you still want it,… then hey,… go for it! } You have probably already stacked the odds tremendously in your favor and you will be very happy with your choice.
That is my 7 point plan to not buying your way to the top. Even so,… there will be some degree of paying to learn, but it will have been greatly minimized.
Geo,… so glad that you are very happy and have arrived at satisfaction.
Chris
Chris,
The 7 step plan is very good advice. Also, like you, I use step 8. I almost never buy anything without doing a lot of research first. I missed a few of these steps with my first two airgun purchases but I did all of them on third purchase. The third time was a charm as they say.
RR,
That’s a good point. Will the ASP20 slow PCP sales, or will sale of all airguns increase? We shall see.
I already know the rifle is insensitive to hold. I found that out on Sig Day. But I will look at it again for you.
B.B.
B.B.,
Everything sounds great so far: powerful, quiet, easy-to-cock, and not hold-sensitive.
If the accuracy hangs in there with all the rest, this should prove a super-desirable rifle.
And I’m praying that is so (it surely should as you saw some good results on Sig Day). =>
take care & God bless,
dave
BB,
I do indeed recall what you had said about this sproinger in your Sig Day report. I brought this up now so that should anyone reading this review will have it all spelled out in detail.
Hey, I am already sold. I just need to figure out how to pay for it.
B.B.,
A rising tide lifts all boats. :^) I think when a new airgun comes out that is excellent, it is all good.
And that velocity consistency is remarkable for any air rifle, let alone a springer.
Michael
B.B.
I am trying hard to avoid looking at any new airguns as I have what I want for the applications I have. …Not succeeding very well. 🙂
Bad enough that I had to create a new “companion gun” category (a gun that you always have close by when working outside or going for a walk-about) for a Fortitude. Now I have to add a “gas-ram break-barrel” category to the list for an ASP20.
The only thing that is a problem with me ordering an ASP20 is the presence of a silencer – they are not legal here in Canada. Do you know if SIG has any plans for a Canadian version? If not, I would be thankful if the Great Enabler would have a word with his contacts at SIG suggesting that they consider marketing them up here.
Hank
Hank,
I asked Sig and they told me they are talking about several options. They have to consider all the foreign markets, and each may have its own unique requirements.
I would say this — the Matchlite trigger is a success. They can put that in the bag. The gas piston is a hit, another success and they can run the pressure lower to lower the velocity.
The silencer does work, so for the UK it would be needed.
I think they are just glad the rifle is finally in production.
B.B.
B.B.
For the Canadian market SIG would only have to replace the silencer with a muzzle-break to make it legal for those with PAL ‘s (Possession and Acquisition License). …It is .22 full power the one I would be wanting as a big brother to my FWB 124 🙂
The fact that the rifle can be easily de-tuned to a NON-PAL version (under 500 fps) is a major bonus and shows the flexibility of the platform.
I am sure that SIG is glad that they are in production – I suspect that they will be hard pressed to keep up with filling the orders though. Such a problem to have eh? 🙂
Hank
Hank,
The temptation to purchase another air rifle that one does not really need is what guitar players call G.A.S., as in, “Man, do I have a case of GAS for a Les Paul right now.” G.A.S. = Gear Acquisition Syndrome.
Michael
Michael,
So there is G.A.S for incoming and GAS for outgoing… I have both 🙂
Hank
I’m so thankful that you are mending well. Surgery at any level has inherent risk, both the surgery itself and the matter of complications arising during recovery. Reading between the lines, since you are cocking the ASP20 and marveling at the ease of doing so, you are well.
I have more airguns than I ever thought i’d have when I bought what I thought was going to be my first and only one. Now as I read your experience with this Sig I’m beginning to think (hope) that this may, indeed be that one gun that was expected a few years ago. Ain’t cheap, though. I find that I have to re-learn to “buy good” the first time rather than starting with cheap and working up to “good”. Slow learner. If indeed, the ASP20 is as good as I hope, I’m going to have to sell several airguns.
I do so appreciate the work you put in creating these tests, finding the odd, strange, and curious of the airgun world and bringing them to us as well as testing and reporting on the new and improved. I’m the lightweight in this sport/community. I learn so much from you and from the shared experiences of those posting on this blog. There is no priest/elite attitude that one finds in other areas. No “talking down” to new to the sport members.
Blessings to all,
Dan
Dan,
Very well said. I has been my experience in life that no matter how much you know, somebody knows more. Everyday is a new learning experience for me. How dare I should belittle anyone for their lack of knowledge. I can only hope that what knowledge I do have, I can share with others.
Totally agree!!
Two very important things that I hold dear… acquiring knowledge and sharing knowledge.
Everybody has different experiences and perspectives, it always does good to consider them relative to your own views.
Hank
GrandpaDan,
Good to hear from you. Guess I am one of the slow learners as well. I started out with a Crosman Nitro Venom .22 breakbarrel. Not understanding the hold sensitivity of springer and gas ram breakbarrels, I didn’t think the Crosman was accurate enough. My next purchase was carefully researched and I chose a Diana RWS 34P .22 with a nice Hawke AO scope. This is a known high quality and accurate springer, but not for me. I tried very hard to learn the art of the artillery hold. B.B. even took pitty on me and offered to test the Diana for me. He installed a Vortek Kit and a BKL adjustable scope mount. Then he demonstrated that my Diana was accurate and capable of 1″ or less groups at 25 yards, which had always been my goal. He returned my rifle and I thought my problems would be over. That was not the case and after several months of persistently trying to shoot my Diana accurately, I finally gave up this past March and bought my third airgun. I purchased a Gamo Urban PCP, a nice UTG 3-12×44 compact scope, and a cheap hand pump.
The last purchase of the Urban resolved all of my accuracy issues and 1/2″ groups at 30 yards are easily obtainable. This airgun satisfies all of my requirements for pesting and then some. I love this airgun.
So, there was a definite learning curve for me. Most of my learning came from the good folks here in this blog. They are a great bunch of guys…and of course B.B. is my hero. I have read every blog post and every comment beginning in June 2017 to date and the learning continues. Yes, I was a slow learner but I believe this is something anyone without airgun experience must go through. There is so much to learn.
My progression was a Crosman Nitro Venom $149 on 3/26/12, a GRT-III trigger $32 on 5/7/12, a Diana RWS 34P .22 w/ Hawke Scope $319 on 3/15/13, and finally a Gamo Urban $220 on 2/18/18. Also a UTG 3-12×44 scope $142 and a hand pump $86, on 2/18/18. Then BKL offset scope rings $49 on 3/3/18 for a grand total of $997 plus tax. Learning curves can be expensive 🙂
Geo
It’s always nice when a person is satisfied with one good gun.
Time to stop looking through the PA site. Time to stop reading the blog. And don’t read anymore reviews.
No tell’n what could happ’n next if you continue. 🙂
GF1,
Stop looking through the PA site? Stop reading the blog and reviews? I think NOT 🙂
I am hooked on airguns now and even though I am not interested in pistols, I read the blogs and comments. I guess I now have OCD (obsessive compulsive disorder) regarding the reading of this blog and all the comments. I read EVERYTHING on the blog! I find watching YouTube video reviews of airguns to be more interesting and entertaining than watching the boob tube. There’s no stopping me now, I am totally hooked. I do have to admit that this hobby has consumed a lot of my time.
Geo
Yep. 🙂
I am very glad to learn – by inference from your words – that you are doing well. Please take care of yourself until full recovery.
And what a report! This Sig product is looking better and better the more we know about it. Low speed spread with different pellets, high power with relatively low cocking effort and a good trigger on top. What is not to like? There are a few areas to explore like accuracy and hold sensitivity, but I assume that there will be no big surprises based on your previous experience at the Sig factory. it could create a new category of rifles. Power Precision Springer (PPS) or something like it.
I am afraid that I will have to make room for a new airgun in my safe when the set with included scope is released. A synthetic stock, appropriate with that stock design, would close the deal on the spot for me, without question.
These results show that Ed and the other people at Sig have really engineered this rifle from a blank sheet of paper rather than just repackaging an existing design. Good work Sig! It would ne nice if this example is followed by other manufacturers.
I will close with an open question for Mr. Schultz, how about a break-barrel air pistol?
Waiting for the accuracy test. Yep you mentioned what it shot at Sig’s place. Now let’s see what it shoots at BB’s place.
And then how long do we have to wait to see the results of the durability test. As it goes. Time Will Tell.
GF1,
Maybe I should test it again in 25 years? 😉
B.B.
BB
I sincerely hope you do.
I doubt I will. But somebody will. You know how that goes.
B.B.,
Great test,so far, of the ASP20 and Whiskey-3.
Accuracy testing of this ASP20 to your standard and on your range and time is what I’m truly interested in.
I went over to the Dark Side many years ago (February 1992 to be exact) I never expected to look back on barrel cockers, sidelevers, bottomlevers and even toplevers ever again. Outside of a Whiscombe; if one or more was/were to be Willed to me!
I may need to revise my thinking about this powerplant if this proves to be an inherently accurate design AND, the initial lifecycle reliability is as good as I expect. As far as the other end of the Bathtub Curve; what kind of testing did SIGAir do or plan to do to simulate full lifecycle? Were you briefed on anything about that while at SIG or in follow on discussions with Ed Shultz and others at SIGAir?
Thanks again Tom!
shootski
BB
Did anyone from SIG mention whether or not stock and trigger guard screws will never come loose? I ask (facetiously) because I called SIG SAUER customer service earlier today to request torque specs for the ASP20 stock and trigger guard screws. They refused to provide the data as it is considered “proprietary”. When I asked what I was supposed to do when the screws loosened up, they said that I should send the rifle to them as it has a five year warranty. I asked the service rep to check with his supervisor about this. I was put on hold and when the rep came back on line he repeated that the data is proprietary.
Do you think you can get SIG to provide the data or does it look like we’ll all be sending our rifles to them every few tins of pellets?
Glad to see your hospital stay was short.
Best wishes.
The other Mark B.
Other Mark,
Welcome to the blog.
Torque specs for the stock and triggerguard screws? Have you been reading Walther manuals again? 🙂
Even FWB and Walther don’t use torque wrenches on their stock screws that I am aware of. Walther uses a special Allen wrench that has places for two fingers and they talk you through how much pressure (wrench handle deflection) to use when tightening the screws.
I watched Sig assemble the ASDP20 and never saw a torque wrench used. They had them for some parts in the powerplant, but not for the stock, that I can recall.
B.B.
Would Loctite Threadlocker Blue solve this potential problem? This is more a question than a suggestion.
What do I know? Very little, so leaving it for the experienced experts to weigh in.
Basil,
I really don’t think it is a problem. I will watch the screws during the test to see if there is any loosening, but I doubt there will be. Basil?
BASIL!!!!!
B.B.
B.B.
Thanks for the info regarding stock and trigger guard screw torque. I’ve become a torque fanatic ever since I ruined a scope by over tightening scope rings. So much so in fact, I call “the factory” when I get a new scope to check on torque specs if such are not provided in the product documentation. I’ll play it be ear if stock screws loosen up.
And yes, I do read the manuals although for some reason I always find myself jumping over all the “Warnings” and “Cautions” which seem to take up pages and pages.
Lest I set a bad example:
Warning: Do not skip over Warnings and Cautions in product documentation.
Best Wishes
The other Mark B.
Other Mark,
Whew! I was hoping I wouldn’t offend you with my remarks! Apparently not. 🙂
And, your warning about the warnings comment made me laugh aloud! For those under 40, that’s LOL
B.B.
What matters is to avoid being torqued off by over-torquing. I learned this from a book. And from good blogs like this one.
Basil,
I won’t make you wait for this, though I will repeat it and give you credit for asking.
Sig emailed me that there, in fact, IS a torque spec for the stock screws on the ASP20 of 30 inch-pounds. They also warned that the rear trioggerguard screw is just a wood screw and should not be torqued.
You were right to ask and I made fun. Shame on me! 🙂
B.B.