by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier
Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4
Part 5
Part 6
Part 7
Part 8
Diana 45 is a large breakbarrel spring rifle.
This report covers:
- First shot at 12 feet
- Firing behavior
- At 25 yards
- First group
- Second group
- Velocity retest
- Overall evaluation
Today, I’m testing the tuned Diana 45 at 25 yards. This time, I’ll use a scope. I mounted an obsolete CenterPoint 3-9X40AO scope on the rifle. Because this is a vintage Diana rifle, which is always a drooper, I used a UTG drooper scope base. The one I used was a prototype that was left from when I was testing different base angles for Leapers. I selected one with a very slight droop of a couple degrees — less than what you can buy from Pyramyd AIR.
First shot at 12 feet
I always sight in close to the target, so I know that I’m on when I move back to 25 yards. I was so close that the target was blurry in the scope with the parallax set as close as it would go.
I sighted-in with RWS Superdomes.The first pellet landed 3-1/2 inches below the aim point. Now, if the gun was on at 25 yards, it would be about 2.50 inches low at 12 feet (the 2.50 inches is roughly the height of the scope over the center of the barrel), but this was one inch lower than that. And, I was using a drooper base! What that means is that this 45 is a heck of a drooper! It’s in the same severe class of droopers as the Diana 34 I used when testing these bases for Leapers.
Fortunately, I have several other prototype bases to choose from. I selected one with a real steep angle. The scope and base came off the rifle and were replaced in 5 minutes. These UTG drooper bases are nice that way.
The second UTG scope base I used has a steep slope — more than needed, but not too much.
Shot 2 was level with the center of the bull I had aimed at. So, the gun was now shooting high at 25 yards; but like I said in the last Back to the basics — scope tips report, I can always adjust the scope down — it’s up that I don’t want to deal with!
The first shot landed 3-1/2 inches below the aim point and to the right. When I installed the second drooper base, it brought the shot up and level with the center of the bull without adjusting the scope.
Firing behavior
I also noticed for the first time how the 45 really feels when shot. Up to now, I’d just been holding it and pointing it into a pellet trap, but this time I was actually concentrating and shooting at a target! The rifle is MUCH smoother than it was before! The tuneup has removed 90 percent of the vibration the rifle had. I didn’t expect to be able to say that, but I’m glad I can. The tuneup was nearly a complete success — much better than I originally thought.
At 25 yards
The rifle shot high and right at 25 yards. The second drooper base slopes too much, but it’s not impossible to work with. I adjusted the scope down and to the left. Then I spent several shots getting the group where I thought I wanted it. Now, it was time to shoot a group.
First group
The first group started with the conventional artillery hold. My off hand touched the front of the triggerguard. The shots were together, but not tight. Then, I slid my off hand out to the start of the cocking slot and fired 2 more shots that almost touched. They went higher but were so close together that I thought I’d found the hold. I then adjusted the scope down several clicks and several clicks to the right and proceeded to shoot a group.
First group
I couldn’t believe how close the pellets were hitting! I kept waiting for that stray shot that ruins the group, but it never came. Ten RWS Superdomes went into 0.392 inches at 25 yards. If you remember, a couple days ago I shot my Beeman R8 and was pleased with a 0.403-inch ten-shot group, so this group pleases me as well. And, once you know the right hold, this gun is very consistent.
Are you kidding? Ten RWS Superdomes in 0.392 inches at 25 yards. Yes, I’d say this 45 can shoot.
After this group, I adjusted the scope down and to the right and fired 2 shots at a different target to correct for any scope stiction (the scope’s tendency to remain in the old place until jarred loose by several shots). Then, I was ready to shoot another group.
Second group
By this time, I’d already fired about 30 shots — and was getting tired. On the next group, I lost my concentration and allowed my off hand to slide further forward on the cocking slot for a couple shots that landed higher on the target. This group measures 0.779 inches between centers, which is still good for 10 shots at 25 yards. But I now know the exact hold this rifle prefers.
The second group is larger because I used 2 different hand placements. I was tired and lost my concentration for a couple shots.
Velocity retest
Besides accuracy, I said I would retest the velocity if I found one or more pellets that shot well in this rifle. Before this test, RWS Superdomes were averaging 800 f.p.s. with a spread of 24 f.p.s. I thought the rifle would slow down a bit as it broke in. Let’s see how it shoots the Superdomes today.
The average for 10 shots is now 799 f.p.s. with a spread from 791 to 814. That’s a spread of 23 f.p.s. So, the gun is still shooting about where it was before. I did get a couple spurious shots in the 400+ f.p.s. range; but looking at those small 25-yard groups, I know the gun is shooting fine. I now know what’s happening, but I’m saving it for a blog of its own.
Why didn’t I shoot several other pellets? I had them ready to go, but it seemed after these 2 groups that I’d done what I set out to do. I proved that the Diana 45 is an accurate air rifle after the tune — as it was before.
Overall evaluation
This report has certainly been an education for me. I learned all about the insides of the Diana 45, plus I applied several tuning techniques that seem to have worked pretty well.
The Diana 45 is a classic air rifle that I never really appreciated until now. Others have rold me how much they like their rifles; but until I tested this one both before and after a light tuneup, I didn’t really appreciate it. I hope this series has been as interesting to you as it was to me!
BB,
Bravo! I had noticed that after you had started this blog, Diana 45s started showing up for sale. It seems the sellers like to take advantage of the added attention you provide.
With what many would consider the over the top quality construction displayed in these, I have seriously considered one. It would likely satisfy my “need” for a “powerful” sproinger, most especially with the accuracy this one has displayed.
RR,
I am surprised the 45 is this accurate, but I also suspect this one is not that unusual. They are all probably just as accurate.
B.B.
B.B.
Excellent! That’s some straght_hands.dll magic!
I always felt there are just a few springers that can not shoot at all due to faulty construction or inherently bad manufacturing. All others need some understanding and tinkering and it seems that almost every springer (well, excluding ones like FWB-300 Anschutz-380 etc) can be made to shoot better – or, at least, made to be more forgiving to the shooter, than out of the box.
The reason why it’s not so right from the factory I believe is purely economic and a question of manpower. Very few workers can be trained to understand how it all works and know what thousandths to remove or polish when it comes to squeesing top performance out of the rifle and they cost too much to the employer. However what can be better for the owner than adding some $400 of value to your rifle while spending $100 and having a few hours of a very interesting hobby?
duskwight
duskwight,
I lucked-out this time. The tune was successful and the rifle that was tuned was accurate all along.
If I have any complaint, it is that the rifle’s short stroke piston is still a bit hard to cock. I could do with 5 pounds less effort. But the rest of the experience was a real joy.
I like it when things turn out right!
B.B.
B.B.
Did you try that widened skirt test to determine an optimum force of a spring for the powerplant in question? Perhaps cutting a few coils off the mainspring and optimizing force-in/force-out could give a lighter cocking and less kick on shooting cycle.
duskwight
duskwight,
No, I didn’t try that.
And I asked the rifle’s owner if he wanted me to lessen the cocking effort by shortening the mainspring, but he decided he wanted to keep the rifle as stock as possible.
B.B.
B.B.,
Thanks for this wonderfully educational series of reports on the Diana 45. I am very glad that you were rewarded for your efforts and that you have a new appreciation for this model. I enjoy mine. I have a question. Does the MUCH improved shot cycle smoothness also make it easier to shoot accurately or does it just make it more enjoyable to shoot often?
Thanks
Tabrown,
I don’t think the new calmer powerplant is any easier to shoot accurately. It’s just more enjoyable. If the 45 had a rough 8-lb. trigger that was improved it might have made a difference, but as it is I think the rifle was always this accurate.
B.B.
Hey BB, an uncle of mine is thinking of giving me a RWS Diana .177 under lever that I haven’t seen since I was 13. I am now 43. Mostly likely it hasn’t seen the light of day since. My question is, how can I prep it to be used again? Can I do it or do I need a pro to take it all apart and relubed? Or is it fine to use?Thanks
Brad,
So, this underlever is at least 30 years old. I am guessing it is a Diana model 50, which is a taploading underlever that was made up to 1987 as the 50T/T01. Earlier versions of the rifle have the ball bearing sear.
The rifle could have a leather or synthetic piston seal. You have to see it to know. I would oil it through the tap first and just shoot it. Open the tap, drop in 10 drops of silicone chamber oil and close the tap, then stand the rifle on its butt for a couple hours before shooting. The gun will spray oil at first, so shoot it outdoors or where oil doesn’t get on the carpet.
I see no need to take the gun apart unless it feels rough when you cock or shoot it.
B.B.
B.B.,
Thank you for this series on the Diana 45. I enjoyed learning about the rifle and reading about the work you did. I also learned about what you didn’t do, like not disassembling or adjusting the trigger. Some things are better left alone. I’ve learned a lot shooting airguns and reading your blog these last few years.
Thanks,
RB
B.B.
I need your advice urgently Sir. This also is about Diana. I went to our local Diana agent to buy a 350 magnum for my friend. When I inspected it closely I was surprised to see that it did not have Made in Germany stamped on the breech block or anywhere. The dealer got a bit flustered when he saw that I knew my stuff & showed me the shipping documents & invoices which were from Diana Germany. But I know for sure that they are not made there. Only the box says made in Germany. I also know that the original gun has a lifetime warranty. But the box says 2 years. He also sells it for the equivalent of $850! He is the registered agent for Diana here. How can I be sure? Also, the quality of the blueing is definitely not Diana. What are these top names up to? Has quality taken a back seat today?
Errol
Errol,
I don’t know where you live, but I assure you that all Diana 350 Magnums ARE made in Germany.
In the U.S. marking the box is good enough, I believe.
As far as the warranty goes, that is between you and your dealer.
B.B.
Tom,
The Diana guns sold and marketed by Umarex and co-branded with RWS (which will be written right next to the Diana name) have a limited lifetime warranty. The Diana guns not also marked with the RWS brand have a 2-year warranty. Umarex USA still brings them into the U.S., but they do not put RWS on them.
For instance, look at these Diana guns, which are listed as RWS Diana or Diana RWS. They have limited lifetime warranties:
/brands/rws?mid=44
Then, look at these Diana guns, which are imported by Umarex USA but are not co-branded as RWS. They have a 2-year warranty.
If you look thru each list, you’ll see that both have the RWS 350 Magnum listed — at very different prices.
Edith
Ms. Edith,
Thanks for all the info ma’am. I live in Sri Lanka. I read that Diana once outsourced their barrels & some internals to the Chinese some time back. The 34 & 350 mag. Models. Now the new owners have closed down the Germany factory. I just don’t see the same quality & believe me I’ve seen & shot originals so I know. But they want exorbitant prices to go with the name but can’t be honest on the true origin. Had the same experience with the Hatsan dealer but Hatsan replied that the guns were made by them. But no made in Turkey stamped on the breech block. But they are much better in build & strength of components so I might just buy the 135. Its also 30000 bucks cheaper. Same two year warranty.
Errol
Errol,
Are you saying that you are seeing Dianas that are not made in Germany? Now, that will be news to everyone! This is the first I’ve heard of that.
B.B.
B.B.
Some time back, there were people complaining about the accuracy of their 34s . It was discovered that the guns in question had 12 groove barrels (came from another source ) . Then someone started the rumor that only Chinese barrels have 12 grooves .
Wonder what LW thinks of that ?
twotalon
TT,
Well, that’s just a rumor, then, because my old 34 has a 12-groove barrel.
B.B.
B.B.
The Diana’s that I saw 4 years ago at this dealer were of excellent finish & quality and all had made in Germany stamped on the breech block. I did not see it on the guns he had in stock today. He had Noricas & Gamos Cometas all stamped made in Spain. But not the Dianas. He showed me documents that suggested they were shipped by Diana co. But what confuses me is if it was stamped earlier why not now? That shows that it is not totally made in Germany & at least the barrel is not. I also read these are legal requirements but I’m just not sure. My issue is if they want me to pay top dollar then they have to prove its genuine. Marking the box is not sufficient. Hope someone who knows can enlighten us.
Errol
Errol,
Your post piqued my curiosity so I just had to go look at my two Diana RWS or vice versa, RWS Diana AG’s which I purchased last year. Both are clearly STAMPED made in Germany at approximately 9:30 (drivers side) on the spring tube below the dovetail rail. One is a M48 and the other, a M460 magnum.
I believe that what you are seeing here is a unethical play on words (legalese B.S.) where logically, a reasonable person would believe that the the rifle was manufactured in Germany, when in fact only the box was, MAYBE! Lawfully, they didn’t lie if indeed the container (box) was made in Germany! Unfortunately, this is the world that we live in today,filled with deception! I would not be surprised at all if in fact they, (the Chinese) are “bootlegging” Diana rifles, they have just about done this with just about everything else! The funny thing is for some unknown reason, (at least to me), is that they have a serious problem manufacturing QUALITY CARDBOARD!
In my opinion, if the country of origin IS NOT indelibly marked on the spring tube/receiver, there is a problem, it may even be coming from India or Pakistan! The bottom line is: CAVEAT EMPTOR!
Bugbuster
Bug Buster,
Thanks should maybe ask the dealer if he can give an assurance. You’re right about the dishonest world that’s what bothers me.
Errol
Errol,
Me too!
Bugbuster
Errol,
I am working on getting the answer about the Diana factory.
Edith
Ms. Edith,
Thank you
Errol
Drooping reappears! But it doesn’t seem to affect accuracy. That’s good shooting. And if B.B. is tired at 30 shots no wonder I was missing during my 120 shot daily shooting regimen. Well, it was all fun anyway. I’m a big fan of tuning after the job that Rich from Mich did on my B30, transforming it into a completely different gun.
Matt61
My 31 Panther (known to you as the 34 Panther) says “Made in Germany” on the system housing, below the scope rail. It has no “Made in Germany” marking on the breech block or barrel.
This rifle was made when the Rastatt plant was still operating.
The old broken 1979 LP 5 G I have also has no “Germany” markings on the breech block or barrel.
Anyway… Are you expecting *every* single component to say “Made In Germany”? How does one “prove” something is made in country X? Markings don’t prove anything 🙂
I wonder if Diana guns are currently being made, though. To my knowledge they closed the Rastatt factory and scrapped the machines. So, are they currently selling the existing stock or is GSG already making new “Diana” airguns?
Cpt. Klotz
What I’m saying is it was marked before but its not marked now.I’m certainly not saying that every part should be marked. That would be impractical. But the normal practise of branded manufacturers is to state the origin on the breech block or compression chamber housing a matter of assurance to their customers & pride in their products quality. Now that their factory is closed down I echo your question. Who is making them now? Is it the same quality? Is it fair to have high prices because of the famous name ? Markings prove the origins.
Errol
As far as I know, the new owners (German Sport Guns) intend to keep making them in Germany, but not in Rastatt.
Maybe that is actually a good thing because the old management seems to have been fairly stubborn and arrogant… to the detriment of product quality (fragile plastic sights, poor scope rail, etc.).
It’s bad news for the employees of course and the question is whether the new and “better” equipment actually produces power plants and barrels that shoot as accurately as the old ones…
I still think this will creep up gently, intrigued as to why it sporadically cuts it’s muzzle velocity nearly in half with no change in firing behaviour.
Glad you’ve been right through this rifle too, it was really popular over here in the UK, outsold the FWB 124/127’s in spades, and not for nothing, it was more accurate, had a better trigger, similar power and was two thirds of the price.
Once this has settled fully, I’m pretty sure it can hold it’s head high in anu modern FT shoot in the springer class.
Now get a hold of a workaday HW35, give it a sweet tune and you may “get it” with that one too 😉
Dom,
I’m fairly certain I know what is happening with the odd low velocities. Just have to confirm it, which I’ll do with a test and review of the chronograph.
B.B.
B.B.,
Looking forward to the chrony report since we have the same one. It was a “bit finicky”, at first.
But will say that that it worked good once I got used to what it liked. The .22 was less issues than the .177 (as you stated that it would be).
The Mayer family wouldn’t be putting Chinese barrels on their rifles, goodness knows I’ve never seen such a glacially traditional company, in house stocks, fiercely adhering to the Bavarian stock and still slightly suspicious of fitting scopes 🙂
All may change now though
BB,
1. I have to wait on the cause of the low velocities, a subject I am really curious about.
2. I have to buy a Diana 45 and to tune it, as this is really a heck of a good springer.
3. I have already bought a Diana 27, as per your recommandations. (a 5.5, really a wonderfull rifle!)
Maybe I should abstain from reading this blog?
August
August,
1. In the words of te Dread Pirate Roberts, “Get ysed to disappointment.”
2. It’s a good rifle, no mistake.
3. I told you so!
Glad to hear you like the 27.
B.B.
B.B.,
A.392″ 10 shot group is very impressive with any springer rifle, not just this one. Very good shooting.
I mentoned yesterday that I got my R.A.W. BM500 LW. Well I just shot my first group after sighting in. The 10 shot group was shot at 25 meters and measured .266″. I am very pleased so far. It seems as though this particular rifle is going to take some getting used to though. I’m not just automatically super comfortable with it. That is no problem though if it continues shooting this good. Actually, it will get better. Hopefully down to .20″.
G&G
G&G,
That is a great group! Congratulations.
B.B.
Thanks B.B.,
That means a lot coming from you.
G&G
I hope no one has a problem with me starting a little survey. I am curious what our readers think is the prettiest or most attractive rifle, regardless of price, that Pyramyd AIR currently carries. Right now my vote goes to the Air Arms S510 EXTRA FAC Limited Edition Air Rifle. I just think the stock is outstanding and the stainless metal work goes with it fantastically. I would love to own this rifle but it’s just not in the cards right now. Anyone else care to chime in?
G&G
G&G,
Have you learned nothing?…….You throw (those) kind of questions “out there” on Fridays….That way you get 3 days of responses. 😉
Off the head, I’ll say the LGU, but more research is needed. 🙂
Chris
Chris,
Ya gotta remember, I’m getting old and probably won’t remember the question by Friday.
G&G
G&G,
I use “Post-its”, works for me….and note pads,…lots of note pads! 🙂
Chris
I just realized that the metal work is not stainless but nickel. Apparently a special kind of nickel.
G&G
B.B.,
No reply required. I showed my neighbor the TX200, Mon., and even shot a few shots at some plastic drink bottles.
Today, Wed, he shows up with a 99$ Swiss Arms .177 gun (and) scope combo, he got at the local Wally World, 1200 fps.
Scope elevation cap was off, elevation screwed (ALL) the way up to the point the adj. was (loose) and (crooked) ala, a screw driver.
I mentioned VERY delicatley shimming the rear ring and getting that elev. screwed back in “just a bit”. And,… sight in rested, and not off shoulder.
Since he is near a 20 year reserve vet, he would hear none of it, and insured me he had shot M16’s and 50 cals. and that he knew what he was doing…. OK?
Mmmmm, I might have my work cut out for me…… 🙁
Chris
Great report series BB. I really like the Diana rifles I have. That said, if I were buying new today I world probably look at the Air Arms TX 200. You might as well start with the best!
Mike
B.B.,
Just an FYI, the “See All” open sight, which you reviewed awhile back, is getting “quite” a bit of advertisment on the “Pursuit” channel.
Be doing any more with it?, or….final thoughts on it?
Chris
Chris,
I wanted it to work as advertised, but it just didn’t. Maybe I will try it again, but it will take a special need.
B.B.
BB and all,
I had mentioned this earlier, but since we are on the subject of the new Dianas, I thought I would bring it up again. I have been very interested in the new N-TEC and have been waiting impatiently, so when I heard PA had them for sale, I dashed over there and started checking them out. What I found was that most of the reviews of the new Dianas state that the quality control of the new company is poor at best. They mention burrs, sharp edges, metal shavings and no lubricant. It sounds like the new owners are trying to recoup their money as fast as they can, relying on the name to suck buyers in.
Would you want to buy an AMF Harley?
R.R.
This what I feel exactly. I wrote to Diana today & asked them why their guns sold here are not stamped Made in Germany. They send me this reply. ” all Diana airguns are German “products” but not all are stamped made in Germany. See how they carefully avoid saying made in Germany? Also, why are some not stamped and where are those guns going? I replied that I’m not satisfied with their answer & bluntly asked them if they outsource some parts. No reply up to now. I think the stamped guns are sent to USA & Europe where the customers know their guns & CANNOT be hoodwinked & the unstamped guns to us in Asia as I know that most here won’t think of a close look & would trust the dealer. I also think more than one Big Name is up to this. Wish there was a way to verify this & teach them a lesson by boycotting their products
Errol
Errol,
I just heard back from Umarex USA. The Diana factory in Germany is still operational. Many years ago, they tested barrels from different origins when there was a question about accuracy, and they found no difference in accuracy.
I have no answers regarding issues with “Made in Germany” not appearing on the guns in Sri Lanka. If country of origin is required to be on the gun, then guns your dealer has are in violation of the law. I wouldn’t buy them. But that’s just me. If I’m going to spend my hard-earned money for the real thing, then the real thing better be what I’m getting.
Edith
Hi Ms. Edith,
Thanks so much for all the trouble taken. Its much appreciated. I mirror your sentiments. I will not buy a gun especially a top brand if I don’t see the country of origin stamped on it. I wrote to Diana & the reply I got also contributed to my decision. I bluntly asked them why the guns here are not stamped made in Germany & is it because they’re outsourcing some parts. They took a long time to reply & said that all Diana guns are German products but not all are stamped made in Germany. Why? Also that the dealer here is their importer so they “think” that the guns sold by them are German products. They carefully avoided saying they are manufactured in Germany. Legally I think if a product is assembled in a country finally with some outsourced parts it can be called a product of that particular country. I’m not sure about the law here regarding this. I also think the stamped factory produced guns may be going to US & EU cos people there know their guns. Bottom line, I’m not convinced so I’m not buying. I think the new owners are to blame for this.
Errol
Errol,
I for one would not buy a Diana, HW, etc. if it did not say made in Germany on it, most especially for the premium I would be paying for it. Even more importantly is the apparent lack of quality control being exhibited by the new owners of Diana. If I am not mistaken, the factory has moved. Very likely most of the original employees, including management are no longer there.
Like I said, I hope they very quickly learn their lessons and return to building a quality product.
Hi RR
I couldn’t have said it better. I saw the difference in quality right away from the guns I saw at the same dealer about 3 or 4 years ago.what caught my eye first was the low quality of the blueing. This is what made me go over it closely. I hope they learn fast that a person who looks to buy a Diana wants the best & knows his stuff,or they won’t last long. The sad part is the Mayer family would I’m sure never have stooped to this. Wonder what they may be thinking of this?
Errol
BB, Edith:
I was browsing the PA website at lunch and could not find the Air Venturi Bronco listed. Please tell me it’s not gone. It was on the short list for my next purchase.
Thanks,
Jim
Sorry Jim, it is gone. Like BB says buy them when you see them, If you do not it may not be available.
BB and Fellow Airgunners.
I was amazed at the size of groups BB obtained with this tuned Diana 45. I would be over the moon if any of my Weihrauchs produced groups that small with, or without tinkering . This particular blog has to rank as one of my favourites of all BB’s offerings. I especially found the dismantling, lubing, adjusting and re-assembly worth the price of admission alone.
If I may be so bold to change topics slightly, I had a chance to shoot a friends brand new Walther LGU in .177 over the weekend. I was impressed with the rifle overall, and it seemed able to shoot sub 1 inch groups at 20 meters with most any pellet we fed it. I was not impressed with the plastic trigger though. When not cocked, it gave me the impression of the “dead finger” trick we used to preform as kids. It seemed overly floppy, and frankly felt cheep and out of place on a $600.00 plus German made airgun. Also, on first glance the bluing had a dark, richness that looked evenly applied over all the metal parts. However, when the owner was mounting a scope, we observed quite a number of scratches around the rear mounting hole. I didn’t think he was ever overly rough with the scope mounting procedure, and neither of us had anything similar happen to any Weihrauch scope mounting procedure. Is it possible for a company to apply the bluing too thinly, and still leave it with a dark rich texture? Have other LGU owners experienced the same problem with bluing scratches?
Overall, I would definitely buy a Walther LGU in .177, or .22 cal. I enjoyed the upright pistol grip, and it was several decibels lower then my HW77 according to a free decibel meter I downloaded on my iPhone. I noticed the trigger has two adjustments as well. The one in front adjusts first stage length, and the rear screw adjusts trigger weight. Proper adjusting could eliminate the floppy dead finger feeling of the trigger, but the idea of charging $30.00 for an upgrade steel trigger seems like highway robbery on an already expensive airgun. I advised him to leave the trigger alone for at least one tin of pellets before attempting any adjustment. My goodness, could this be the airgun that breaks my Weihrauch habit? Stay tuned.
Ciao
Titus
Titus
Don’t give up on those HWs yet . You need to have a look at this .
There are at least 20 shots on this one. The one that went out low left was my fault . Got away from me .
I changed hold a bit for 3 or 4 shots but went back to previous hold when I saw the group was extending downward .
Had some wind, and was wobbling too . 37 yards from a bench with .177 R9 . FTT 4.51 .
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z244/twotalon/target/DSC_0005-1.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z244/twotalon/target/DSC_0006_zpsgiiaoj9q.jpg
twotalon
Awesome!
Success with the tune, and I hope to do the same. That kind of accuracy is why I like mine,
Plus it’s quality construction. It’s a man sized rifle for sure. Thanks for the great series, and I can second previous challenge to warm up to the HW35. It’s an underappreciated classic in the usa. Gotta go tornado sirens going off now.
Speaking on RWS rifles, I bought a Model 48 .22cal. this year.
Are they still prone to breaking the mainspring like they used to be?
I was considering putting in a Vortek soft tune kit.
Thanks for any info,
Daniel
Daniel,
I hate saying bad things about good airguns, but I have heard of a Diana 31 spring breaking in the same way they all used to break — one inch off each end.
I would get that Vortek kit and install it.
B.B.
I put that vortek soft tune kit in my 48,,,,,, WOW!
No buzz, no torque, just a soft thud….
I like the gun now, before it was too loud to enjoy shooting..
Daniel
Thanks, I have some of your airgun newsletters from the mid 90’s when you were testing the model 48-52 and had the “spring break” article. I will use your diagrams in the newsletter to disassemble.
Daniel
I have a question about a RWS 34 . Mine has been worked on by Umarex twice now and it has broken for a third time. Last time Umarex worked on it it came back with a very sloppy trigger and a loose safety but I still used it and and it worked for several months.then the other night when I tried to cock it it wouldn’t catch and when it finally did the safety wouldn’t disengage so now the spring has been compressed for almost a week now and I can’t get Umarex to answer any of my emails or questions . What am I supposed to do ? I really like and enjoy this gun and have talked it up for several years now but I am starting to think I ended up with a lemon. So depending won what happens next I will be in the market for a new rifle so get ready for me to flood you guys with a lot of questions .
Jerry
Jerry,
Wow, that is unexpected!
I have contacted the marketing manager of RWS USA and I think he will get to the bottom of it for you.
But can you tell me what the gun did the first time?
It sounds like the spring guide is the problem this time. Did you try to cock the rifle again and see if the safety will release? I know it is already cocked, so all you will do is bend the barrel down to the end of the stroke to reset the trigger and safety. Sometimes they get out of order,
I have to shake the Dian 45 safety bar from side to side to get it to release sometimes. Have you tried that?
B.B.
The first time when it was new it locked up where you could break the barrel loose but you couldn’t cock it I don’t remember what they said they replaced but it was a 180 dollar fix . The second time I bent the barrel and while they was straightening the barrel they called me and said it needed seals that was a 150 dollar fix now I am having this problem. And yes I did try cocking the barrel again to try to get it to release but it still doesn’t work . Its cocked but it acts like it doesn’t know it is cocked thats how the trigger is acting loose like it wasn’t cocked at all . I have tried cocking and shaking the safety at the same time and still it doesn’t change anything . Is my spring going to be ruined because of this ?
for all the money I am putting into this gun I could have invested in a much more expensive gun the first time around.
Thanks
Jerry
I will try again tonight with moving the safety bar side to side and see if that works .
Thank you for the quick response .
Jerry
Jerry,
I contacted RWS USA and they are looking into it.
B.B.
Thank you very much
I tried moving the safety side to side while pulling back on the barrel . It didn’t help at all . Still locked up .
Thanks
I disassembled my rifle ( took off the scope and stock. your not supposed to send wooden stocks back to Umarex) and it still wasn’t working I tried several more times to get it to fire . Nothing . Then I wrapped it in bubble wrap and when I was putting it in the box it discharged. I am still sending it to them to fix the problem and also see if there is damage done to the rifle . Hopefully they will get to the bottom of this and I can get back to shooting once again.
Jerry
Jerry,
Now I’m almost positive the safety slide was the problem.
B.B.
How much damage could I have done to it when it discharged?
Jerry,
No damage to the gun, but where did the pellet go? If the gun was empty then the gun dry-fired. One time won’t hurt it.
B.B.
Jerry,
Nom damage to the gun, but where did the pellet go? If the gun was empty then the gun dry-fired. One time won’t hurt it.
B.B.
The gun was empty . I pushed the pellet out so I wasn’t sending a loaded gun to the factory to be worked on. And that is the only time it has ever been dry fired.
Thank you.
Jerry
I just wanted to let you know. I just got a e-mail from Fedex and my gun is on its way home. I don’t know what the problem was or what they fixed but they have already sent it out with no explanation. I will let you know when I get it what the repair order says on it on what they did. Thanks for all the time you spent talking to me .
Jerry
Hi one last post I just got my rifle back . Paper works says defective trigger. they installed a new trigger and test fired it . 11.9 gr pellet @ 801fps . So compressing the spring didn’t seem to do any damage to it .
Thank you so much for talking with me and contacting the company for me .
Thank
Jerry
I guess i will save the box this time so I will have something to send it back in if there are any other problems.
Jerry
Jerry,
Thank you for telling us the rest of the story. I am so glad your gun is fixed.
B.B,
Tom,
Hello There! I just recently retired from a long career in sales, marketing and consulting that required extensive travel across the country and abroad. This did not leave me alot of time for all my interests, some had to be placed in storage.
I wanted to get back into shooting, started researching and found out about the ammo shortage and pricing. Plan B was taking my air guns out of the gun safe. The air gun equipment that I had left is all 1980’s stuff and consists of a RWS 45, Crosman 1377 and a Mark II. Gathering as much info as I could, came across Pyramyd AIR, you and your blog. I read with intense interest your report on the 45. After reading parts 1 and 2 discretion took over and I decided to get the rifle to a pro. I found “John in PA” called made an appointment and drove the 119 miles to his shop.
He could not get over the condition of the 45 as it hardly had been used and was put in storage in 1985. It is a made in West Germany unit, date stamped 11 83. He gave it a complete going over and mild tune and I picked it up last week. I do not have enough good things to say about John, what a great person and sure knows the RWS and Beeman products. The rifle is very tame compared to the twanger I remember it being.
I have put around 100 rounds through it so far and now want to scope it. Here is the problem I am having, my dovetail rail does not have the stop pin holes and the large set screw at the rear. I chatted with one of the guys
at Pyramyd and they suggested the Leapers drooper mount for the non T 06 trigger. It does not fit correctly on my dovetail, at least not the way yours does. Any suggestions on how to get my scope mounted would being greatly appreciated.
On John’s recommendation, I ordered a RWS 34, Leapers Scope and drooper rail (T 06) from Pyramyd. Have not shot it yet, but after reading your reviews, it will be heading to John’s after break in for a tune.
Regards,
Canjo
Canjo,
Welcome to the blog.
I’m glad you got your Diana 45 back on the road. They really are nice airguns.
Your new 34 can also be very nice. Mine has a Vortek kit installed several years ago. All twang was removed and the gun is one of my most accurate springers.
You are getting good advice, so I will say just keep reading rthe blog and enjoy.
B.B.
B.B.
Thank you for your very quick response and the welcome to your blog. I am trying to gather as much info as possible and I am digging very deep into your past posts. Your wealth of air gun knowledge and history is outstanding. In the 70’s and early 80’s all I had for firearm info was G&A, plus the writings of O’Conner and Keith.
I was wondering if you had any thoughts on as it seems now my non-standard dovetail peep site rail. The rear large set screw was never on my unit, it did not shear off. Just 3 small screws holding it to the receiver.
Will a dovetail rail with the scope stops from another Diana model fit on my 45 without any modification? Looking at your jpeg of the drooper base it fits totally flush on the dovetail. If i could mount my drooper rail the front of the rail would not lie flat on the dovetail but would be canted up, defeating the purpose the drooper rail.
Let me know when you get a chance. Does Umarex stock parts for the older RWS models? If not does anybody? I have not been able to get a clear handle on that.
Regards,
Canjo
Canjo,
The older Diana 45s didn’t have the large headed screw at the back of the scope base. But the screw that’s there does have a thin shank that will shear off if you use it for a scope stop.
I used a UTG scope base for a Diana 34 on the 45 I tuned. It has the recoil shock shouler you need at the front of the base. There is a cutout at the rear to go around the screw head.
I doubt the Umarex USA has any parts for these older Dianas. Here is the man to contact:
B.B.
Tom –
I bought my first adult air rifle in 1980, Lady Diana – a commemorative RWS 45. I was shooting a lot of .22 silhouette at the time and I wanted to practice the course in my back yard in a suburban neighborhood. I bought it blind from a mail order house for $90 along with its RWS 3-9AO scope. At the time, the only air rifle competition near me was the Daisy junior BB-gun course.
That rifle taught me a lot about shooting offhand. Beeman was a help, supplying an array of pellets and proving that velocity wasn’t the sole arbiter of performance. Beeman was also a great sounding board for care, feeding, and tuning, but also a quandary since my budget wouldn’t tolerate the astronomically priced and much hyped Beeman line. My 45 did everything I asked and I could only imagine that expensive Beeman esoterica was marketing hot air. At the time, my silhouette rig was a shortened smallbore position match gun with an adapted stock and 10X Weaver. Not pretty, but really accurate and really effective.
As my circumstances improved, I got first a Feinwerkbau 150, then a 300 and tried my hand at backyard 10m. Boring! I read about and attended a field target shoot in 1984 and shot in a hunting rifle class. I won my class that day with a score that proved 5th overall against some very formidable recoiless and air-charged guns with equally formidable optics and I counted myself lucky until I found out those boys weren’t actually shooting very much.
Tom, you know it’s ironic that I found out about the artillery hold while rest shooting to sort out what pellets shot well. That taught me that technique with the 45 was everything and I learned to use it in all positions, otherwise, I’d still be using a sling and wondering why I had fliers! That scope taught me the inner/outer quadrants of windage and elevation that duplex reticles provide without adjustment – a topic all its own.I was lucky to have the 45 as a great teacher.
The old girl went into hibernation for 30 years after my last FT shoot in ’85. The only attention it got was every few years a couple of silicone drops on the breech seal and down the cylinder with some cocking motions to spread it, some warmed up spring oil where all the needle reached, and good wipe down with WD40.
Last week, my wife asked me if I couldn’t reduce the squirrel depredation in our yard without disturbing the neighbors. The squirrels took my entire tomato crop. I have figs ripening and pecans after that. Nets and scarecrows work for birds, but not squirrels. I went to the closet, hauled Lady D out, put her through cleanup, and fetched out some perfect Crosman FT Specials sorted and sized to 4.51mm thirty years ago. The first round at 15 yards was 1½ high, 1½ right. Three rounds later was 15 yard zero. I now have a decreasing population of squirrels.
I’ve read all I could find from you about the 45 and enjoyed it immensely. After all the harvests, I think I might build a spring compressor and attempt your tuning process. Or I may just be happy with a 35-year-old faithful rifle that still holds its own.
Thanks and that’s my 2¢.
E.
E.,
Welcome to the blog.
Do try this tune if you can. It changes the very nature of the airgun. The owner of the gun in this report is now very proud of his gun, where before he felt it vibrated too much to be fun.
B.B.
Tom,
Thanks! The work looks pretty straightforward. Delrin buttons on piston skirts are a boon to lots of reciprocating devices and a precise, slick spring guide is so very logical. Gunsmithing purely mechanical devices is very appealing.
Inasmuch as I never knew it wasn’t fun to shoot, I thought the goings on between my hands were de rigueur for a powerful spring air rifle.
I have a thought regarding the RWS 350 in .22. Now that I know there are first class .22 pellets in heavy weights, it looks like an approach to extending the range available for air rifle work. Comment?
Regards,
E.
E.,
Your instincts are correct.
B.B.