Eagle Claw lever action repeater.
This report covers:
- The rifle
- Scope rail
- Shrouded
- Power levels?
- The stock
- Foster fitting
- Fill to 3000 psi
- Summary
Suddenly it’s 1996 and everything old is new again. I owned a Career 707 lever action Korean rifle made by Shin Sung and this Seneca Eagle Claw reminds me of it a lot! But things change and I have already spotted some changes on this one.
The rifle
The Eagle Claw is a lever action precharged pneumatic (PCP) repeater that comes in both .22 and .25 calibers. In this report I’m testing the .22. The .22 holds 10 rounds and the .25 holds 8. The .22 tops out at 51 foot pounds; the .25 at 70. That should tell you, this is a hunting rifle, plain and simple.
I am testing the rifle version with a 20.5-inch barrel and there is also a carbine whose barrel is 17 inches. The carbine gets 43 foot-pounds in .22 and 64 foot-pounds in .25.
Scope rail
There are no sights, so it’s going to need a scope. There is a Picatinny rail along the top of the receiver. The rotary magazine sticks up slightly above the rail at the front, so two-piece scope rings are the way to go. There is enough room on the rear rail that you could mount a short one-piece mount, as long as the scope clears the mag
The rotary magazine sticks out above the Picatinny scpe rail enough that two-piece scope mounts are required. Or, you could mount a short one-piece mount to the rear rail, as long as the scope will clear the mag.
Shrouded
The barrel is fully shrouded with baffles in the end ahead of the true muzzle. Of course I will test the sound level for you on all power levels. Whatever sound it makes, Pyramyd AIR sells an adaptor to fit a DonnyFL silencer if you need it quieter.
Power levels?
I told you this rifle puts me in mind of the Career 707. One reason is because it has a power adjustment wheel on the bottom of the forearm. From low to high power there are 7 distinct detents where the adjustment wheel stops. That gives you several benefits.
The power adjustment wheel on the left has 7 positions, high to low.
First, you don’t always need the highest power setting. I know that sounds like a travesty, but it’s not. You can plink in the basement or backyard and get a great many shots. Or you can dial the power up to the midrange for specific field applications like plinking at longer range. Or run it up all the way when hunting.
I used to adjust my modified 707 up a click after every 10 shots and I could get 90 shots that stayed around 28 to 30 foot-pounds in a .22 caliber rifle. But my modified rifle had 17 detents — up from the three that came from the factory. The Eagle Claw has 7 detents and we will see what they do when we look at velocity.
Second, if you want to shoot quietly, select a lower power setting. We will see the sound levels at all settings when I test velocity.
The stock
The stock is Indonesian walnut. It has an attractive pattern of checkering on both sides of the forearm and the pistol grip. The name Eagle Claw is cut into the bottom of the forearm.
This is a one-piece stock, rather than the two-piece stock that came on the Career and many other Korean PCPs. I think it gives the rifle a nicer look. The pistol grip and forearm are not that wide, and there is a nice schnable on the end of the forearm.
The wood is called Sepatia. When I first saw it I thought walnut, and it’s close enough to count. There is a low cheekpiece on the left side for right-handers but the stock is ambidextrous enough for most shooters.
Ambidextrous?
As the rifle comes from the box the magazine inserts and removes from the right side of the receiver. It’s stopped in the receiver by a small screw that can be moved over to the opposite side so the mag inserts and removes from the left.
That silver screw stops the rotary magazine when it is inserted. Move it to the other hole and load from the other side of the receiver.
The lever moves the bolt and the bolt is the only thing that holds the magazine in the receiver. When the lever is down and the rifle is cocked the bolt remains hidden in the receiver so the magazine can be inserted without any special machinations on the shooter’s part.
Foster fitting
When I opened the carton and saw the box I thought, Oh, no! Another Korean PCP that probably has a fill probe of some unique size, length and shape. I hope I have something in my kit of PCP fillers that will work.
Then I looked at the plastic bag that contains the second magazine, the manual and the Allen wrench to adjust the trigger and noted there was no probe. Could it be? Could the makers have finally put a universal male Foster fitting on the rifle so anyone can fill it anywhere? Yes!
For some reason the photo on the Pyramyd AIR website doesn’t show a Foster, so I took a pic of the one on the rifle I’m testing.
The Eagle Claw comes with a Foster fitting, so there are no filling problems.
Fill to 3000 psi
The Eagle Claw gets filled to 3,000 psi. That’s a good thing because it allows more filling options like hand pumps. We will discover how many good consistent shots there are at different power levels and also what the low power setting on the onboard pressure gauge is, but Tyler Patner has made a good Insyder video on the website page for the Lever action carbine. I recommend watching it.
Summary
What we have in the Seneca Eagle Claw repeater is a powerful hunting rifle that comes in either .22 or .25 caliber. This one is for small game like squirrels and rabbits and medium-sized game up to large woodchucks. Of course it has to be accurate to be useful, and we will find out whether it is in this report series. Stay tuned.
I like it. Good looking gun.
And since we are calling it a hunting gun I hope you skip the 10 m test and go right to 25 yards then 50 yards and heck maybe even 75 yards.
And what would be nice is to see some ballistic tests or whatever its called when you shoot into the gel. I want to do that with my Wingshot ll with some of the .50 caliber slugs.
GF1,
He will have to do the 10 meter thing, if only to zero it and find good pellets. Remember, he does not want to shoot the couch again.
I to am hoping it shoots nice enough to stretch its legs out there. It is nice to have more air rifles in a more moderate price range that can shoot with “the big boys”. This one is not a half bad piece of eye candy either.
RR
I wouldn’t even waste the time or pellets with this gun at 10 m.
Or shoot it in the house. It would be going to the range to test.
Matter of fact I put one piece of copy paper out at 35 yards when I sight in a new gun or scope. Once I do that I’m shooting out at 50 yards. So once I do that then I shoot to find my best pellet at those distances. If I’m grouping good out there then I know I will group good at distances under 35 yards.
To me I just dont see 10m or yards to be a beneficial test.
GF1,
The range is exactly why he will test it at 10 meters and 25 yards. It may not be worth dragging it out to the range. Remember the FX Dreamlite?
RR
Yep BB said he can shoot at 25 yards at home. Guess I would be a little leery about shooting a new sight or gun at his home range if I didn’t know what it would do yet. So I guess I can see him olways wanting to shoot at 10 m safely then try the 25 yards.
In my case my home is the range and for me it would be waisting pellets to shoot at 10m. I might as well just start right out at my 35 yard sight in distance.
This has been around for several years and hasn’t made much of a splash in the pond. The Career carbine is still highly sought after primarily because of their legendary barrels. Reviving this platform seems about 15 years too late. Don’t misunderstand me, I’m always anxious for a review of a pcp under $700, especially one with good lineage.
B.B.,
It seems like one of my favorite features on the Pyramyd AIR website is gone. The “Latest Buzz” on airguns I’m shopping for that links to your multiple series of testing that specific airgun seems to have disappeared. Is this another temporary IT glitch or is this a permanent dilution of information on the PA site?
Kevin,
I don’t know. I’ll ask. You are the first person to mention it.
BB
Kevin,
Here is your answer from IT.
Good to hear!! We didn’t get rid of the Latest Buzz, users can still a link to the latest buzz below the product names:
BB
Kevin,
B.B.,
What prompted my question was when I went to see the details of the Air Arms S510 XS Ultimate Sporter that you reviewed (and bought?). Wanted to compare that updated platform to the updated platform of the Seneca Eagle Claw you’re reviewing. No “latest buzz” linked to the S510.
/product/air-arms-s510-xs-ultimate-sporter-air-rifle-laminate-stock?m=4626
Thanks for verifying that some of your articles are being linked to some of the guns you’ve reviewed.
B.B.,
In the Shrouded section you link to the DonnyFL adapter which seems to be for the Benjamin products, you may change it to here for this item, /product/donnyfl-seneca-eagle-claw-1-2-x-20-adapter?a=9829 either one may work but there is a difference and that may be a problem.
Watched Tyler Patner’s video and he was using the shorter carbine version with good results, but the power adjustment seemed to be somewhat strange. Hope you will look into that and show us just what the power adjuster is adjusting. I would suspect the transfer port.
Mike
Mike,
Good catch! Fixed the link. Thanks,
BB
Mike,
I plan to watch that power wheel carefully when I test the velocity. But I’m testing a rifle, while Tyler tested a carbine, so there may be some differences.
BB
Mike in Atl,
If PA doesn’t have them buyers can get it direct along with their silencer: https://donnyfl.com/collections/adapters
Donny has all the adapters that you could want! They make my Quackenbush quiet; should work even better on lower power PCP.
shootski
BB,
I am not happy that you are finally testing this air rifle. I have watched several videos of the reputable testers shooting these things for some time now. I have had a very difficult time resisting this air rifle. You are about to make it far more difficult for me.
I have been trying to put this out of my head since it first crawled in there. Here you have brought it to the forefront. We are about to learn more than we could possibly glean from all of the videos on the Eagle Claw. I am sooo hyped up for this. The Eagle Claw rifle in .22 has been at the top of my short list for a long time. I know I will not likely own one, but this is going to make it difficult to not.
I have a feeling that by the end of your series on this air rifle that Pyramyd AIR is going to see a sudden jump in the sales of this. Of course, this is why they send these things to you. 😉
P.S. This might be a good candidate for that 3-12 Bug Buster.
RR
If it’s anything like how my Wingshot ll is it should be a nice solid good shooting gun.
I absolutely love my Wingshot ll. Wish I would of had one when I was a kid. But hey at least I’m trying to make up for all that lost time now without it. 🙂
As a kid, I was raised on .22LR. My Dad had a bb gun when he was a kid. That is why I was not allowed to have a bb gun as a kid.
If this thing proves it can shoot, I will have to keep my eyes open for one at a show.
RR
I have a good feeling you are going to want one in the future.
GF1,
Yes, you are probably right. For some strange reason the list of wants is much longer than the list of gets.
RR
The list of wants is (always) longer than the list of gets.
Is there a dust cover for the foster nipple?
Ben,
I didn’t show it but there is a very nice one.
BB
Ben
My Wingshot ll came with one similar to a Marauder rifle.
Oh and it’s a Seneca also.
BenT,
The KISS alternative: https://www.amazon.com/Rubber-Thread-Protector-Assorted-2-inch-3/dp/B07XR9D8W2/ref=asc_df_B07XR9D8W2/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=394237792766&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2462433217941871217&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=21171&hvtargid=pla-887762511967&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=82114518895&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=394237792766&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2462433217941871217&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=21171&hvtargid=pla-887762511967
Chose a size or get a kit and you will never lose your dust cover for the Foster male or female or other fill ports. Been using them since forever to keep dirt and nesting bugs out of all manner of things.
shootski
Shootski,
Over the years I have collected all sizes and colors of these things.
RidgeRunner,
Yea, I have a Skippy Quart jar full of assorted ones so when I go out hunting any gun specific fill fitting cover stays at home. I much prefer carrying a few of the tread protectors in my pack for WHEN i lose one off of my Foster or other fitting. I also cover my muzzle to keep out dirt, rain, and snow. I have seen folks stuff their bore with paper, cling wrap, or use tape to do the same thing. If I shoot one of the buggers off no big deal just get another out of the backpack.
shootski
This gun looks very similar to the Sumatra 2500. In fact, the power level adjustment wheel and pressure gauge looks identical. I am sure that, like the Wing Shot and Sparrow shotguns, it comes from the same factory in South Korea.
Tom, I always enjoy your blog.
Vasco,
I’m sure the Eagle Claw is an updated Sumatra.
BB
Vasco
That’s what I see too.
BB,
I have looked forward to this report. I like the idea of the lever action and this seems to be a good one.
This one seems less clumsy than the Sumatra.
~ken
Is this happening because of the new PA website too?
The Bullseye Bucks is not showing the history dates that the bucks will be added to your account.
It shows this.
[[missing key: currently-pending]]
Activity Points Status
The dates it shows are limited and from a long time back. And the right side of the screen is cut off. I can’t tell what year it’s showing even.
BB, John Bowkett doesn’t put Iron sights on his rifles either, does he? I notice this one has no sling swivels, or or a hard point for a bi pod, lights. For field carry it looks pretty durable and simple, and pointable. This is for the Field and stream crowd, maybe it has a good safty and trigger. Only .25, .22 cal seems odd to me, its a very competitive segment tho. I like the new Gauntlet, nice big bottle on it!
Rob
BB,
So I have an observation about triggers. Yep.
Back in the day when I was hauling the BSA single shot Martini Henry falling block action .22 Dioptre sighted target rifle around shooting rabbits I loved the BSA trigger. It was not light and had a distinct break. Like snapping a matchstick. Glorious.
The question is this: If I have a mushy trigger do I A) Give up and throw it off a cliff or B) Just deal with it and keep shooting?
I am not sure why people like “feels like nothing” triggers. I don’t give a rats ass if it’s go zero weight or it takes 1/3000″ of travel pull to make it work or it’s got 32 stages. I have been talked at about two stage triggers etc etc… not one single person I have talked to about triggers so far has mention a crisp medium/heavy break. Now I am no weakling and I have a trigger finger that is pretty darn strong. I can feel torque. I get tons of feedback from my digits everyday doing stuff. I can tell when a screw is not threading in properly, that telling tiny ramp up of torque ( saves $$$ in expensive parts ) . So a trigger that has no feeling at all really feels very bad. As an engineer I do not like this.
I know that nothing short of a new trigger group will fix my Gamo. It’s trigger feel is based on how it works. It feels like creepy light fluffy mashed potato. Do I just deal with it ? ( It’s baked in … )
If I stick a match stick in my vice, 15mm sticking out, and then pull back at the end ( if it’s a good dry matchstick ) I get this distinct ramp up of torque then SNAP. It breaks. THIS IS THE MAGIC. If it broke at that same point every time I would be in heaven . I don’t need two stages. I have load cells in my finger that are very sensitive! A bit of take up and then show time is all I need. Using the “shaving foam resistance” trigger is not working out for me. Feels bad. Can’t time shot’s and I need that feed back from the trigger. When I am staring at a 25m target, no rest, and my picture is wobbling, timing is all I have left. and if the trigger mush then timing is gone burger. I am trying for 1/2″ groups at 27yd ( 25m ).
I would swapout a super light trigger for a clean break, no question. Give me back that BSA trigger! Robert.
Robert,
I hope that was just a rant because I have no advice for you. I like my triggers crisp, too.
BB
BB,
Ok lets call it a rant. I am totally ok with that. Good to hear you like crisp triggers.
Went to the local gun shop to buy pellets and talk to them about triggers. Did not go well. I gave up, took my pellets and went home. I was not sure what the chap was on about. My ears made me walk away.
Took the new stock to the range last night. 5 tens out of 20 in 4P at 25m. I call that ok. not great. New stock is too heavy at the barrel end, hard to use prone… Trigger tension could go higher. Will wind new springs.
A great bunch were at the range, mostly happy go lucky hunter types and there is one guy who is super focused. He is a shooting machine. Watching him operate is an experience, no wasted energy on his bolt action. Robert.
RobertA,
LOL! I so hate Gamo triggers! I put a GRT3 trigger in my CFX. This was an immense improvement, but was still not just right. If you dig around you may find where some are putting a small diameter bushing in the trigger mechanism and it supposedly improves it. Don’t know. Never tried it.
I am a huge fan of single stage triggers! Most of the airguns I have are single stage. They vary in pull, but are all well worn in so you do not feel any motion between start and break. Some of them take a considerable pull, but they break real nice.
I do have a few two stagers around here. I usually set them up to where they are almost a single stage. Ask BB. 😉 All but one is a top shelfer. I do not know if I am going to be able to do anything with it, but I am going to try for the fun of it.
Do not get frustrated with that mechanism. The thing to do is study it and see if you can improve it. You will have mixed results, but you will learn a lot.
RR,
Well if this is not a good start I don’t know what is, see enclosed picture. A lot of filing. You can count the stages quite easily. I even saw on youtube some guy had modified the group seriously but I was not sure how good it might be. Hard to say without the main spring pressure leaning hard on it. The dumb thing is the spring that pulls the sear lever back in if you decided to unload the trigger is fighting the FRICTION of the sear under the pressure of the main spring. So if you do like I have done, which is to make a light spring, you will get a trigger that cannot return/is very creepy. If you get the trigger to return, because you aborted triggering, you will consequently have a heavy trigger pull. Darned if you do darned if you don’t. If I had the steel I would try a cam profile on the sear lever rather that a strict radius. So that IF you pull the trigger the cam tries to resist the pull ergo: it will push back. As it is now there is ZERO push back. Which equals mashed potato.
The best thing you can do is shorten the sear engagement, but you can’t adjust the take up. ( I have a screw on my plastic trigger ) If you do then the safety mech gets all jammed up when you fire, this is bad, not good.
Essentially this design is SAFE but feels rubbish. “Stiction”is the term I am loooking for. The sear lever is all stiction, the trigger is trying to mitigate this. It’s never going to be a crisp, snappy, clean break. I read an article on 1911 triggers and what you have to do to get them just so. Well that article enlightened me somewhat. maybe it can be modified…. Robert.
RobertA,
Have you seen this modification?
Siraniko
Siraniko,
I have the “plastic trigger” model and yes I did put a screw in it but really it’s a bad idea. The timing of the safety device can be messed up etc etc
BUT I have an idea…. The idea of hammering the lever to drop the thing…. so I am looking at trigger ideas and made one. To keep it simple: the trigger cocks and releases the hammer. It swing up and knocks the lever up which releases the spring hold back. A ballistic trigger? There are several ways to make this work and I am just coming to terms with hammers and triggers. This is the first one I have ever made. It has a long pull, will return if you let off and it snaps clean. I do actually have a two stage idea… but that is later. How do you set the hammer? No idea yet. A set trigger? Even my crude model has enough thump to operate the gamo lever. So I could simply make it a hammer with a short ledge and we are cracking. The spring that powers the hammer may not have to be that strong which lowers the trigger weight. So short pull, not too light and a crisp snap. Can’t that hard to do…. Robert. PS if you can read my diagram you should be able to see what I am up to. : – ) PPS The trigger etc is highly polished at the important places.
RobertA,
Look up set triggers. That might be the answer to your cocking problem.
Siraniko
Siraniko,
The idea of this trigger, is that it cocks as you pull the trigger, so in the photo it is “set” but not cocked, unlike a normal hammer which would be cocked with the sear engaged. Half cock? and full cock/release is double action. Pulling the trigger cocks and then releases the hammer. You can feel the hammer cocking, tension going up then it slips off and the hammer hits the lever etc. I guess it’s a “reset” rather than a “set”. as there is no super short trigger travel involved. hmmm… Robert.